Melasma: Understanding the Cause, Achieving Precise Diagnosis, and Modern Treatment Options

Melasma is one of the most common and often frustrating causes of facial pigmentation. It typically appears as symmetrical brown or grey-brown patches on sun-exposed areas of the face, particularly the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, nose, and chin.

Although melasma is a benign condition, it can significantly affect confidence and quality of life. Many patients experience recurrent pigmentation despite previous treatments, highlighting the importance of accurate assessment and a personalised treatment plan.

What Causes Melasma?

Melasma develops when pigment-producing cells (melanocytes) become overactive and produce excess melanin within the skin.

Several factors contribute to its development:

  • Sun and ultraviolet (UV) exposure
  • Visible light exposure
  • Hormonal influences, including pregnancy and oral contraceptives
  • Genetic predisposition
  • Certain medications
  • Heat exposure
  • Skin inflammation and irritation

The condition is particularly common in individuals with darker skin types and those living in sunny climates such as Australia.

Different Types of Melasma

Melasma can be classified according to the depth of pigment within the skin.

Epidermal Melasma
Pigment is predominantly located within the upper layers of the skin (epidermis). This type usually appears darker brown and often responds more favourably to treatment.

Dermal Melasma
Pigment is deposited deeper within the dermis. These lesions often have a bluish-grey appearance and can be more challenging to treat.

Mixed Melasma
The most common presentation, where both epidermal and dermal pigmentation coexist.

Vascular Melasma
Recent research has demonstrated that abnormal blood vessels and increased vascular activity may contribute to melasma in some patients. This vascular component can influence treatment selection and outcomes.

Precise Assessment at SKEEN

Successful treatment begins with accurate diagnosis and assessment.
At SKEEN, every patient undergoes a comprehensive consultation with experienced skin clinicians who assess:

  • Pattern and distribution of pigmentation
  • Skin type and ethnic background
  • Previous treatments
  • Hormonal factors
  • Sun exposure habits
  • Contributing medical conditions

Melasma in lighter skin types often appears as well-defined brown patches on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and temples.

In darker skin types, melasma may appear more diffuse and can be associated with a higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Advanced VISIA Skin Analysis

SKEEN utilises the advanced VISIA skin analysis system to provide an objective assessment of pigmentation.

VISIA allows us to:

  • Quantify pigmentation severity
  • Identify underlying pigment not visible to the naked eye
  • Assess vascular components contributing to pigmentation
  • Compare baseline and follow-up images
  • Monitor treatment response over time

This technology allows treatment decisions to be based on objective data rather than visual assessment alone.

Treatment of Melasma

Melasma often requires a combination approach. There is rarely a single treatment that provides a permanent cure.

The goal is to reduce pigment production, remove existing pigment, control triggers, and maintain long-term improvement.

Results vary between individuals. Most patients achieve the best outcomes through a combination of strict sun protection, prescription therapies and carefully selected procedural treatments.

Sun Protection: The Foundation of Treatment

Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is the most important treatment for melasma.
Patients are encouraged to use:

  • SPF 50+ sunscreen
  • Physical blockers containing zinc oxide and titanium dioxide
  • Protective hats and clothing
  • Sun avoidance during peak UV periods

Without diligent sun protection, even the most advanced treatments are unlikely to provide lasting results.

Medical Treatments

Prescription Pigment-Lightening Agents

A range of topical medications may be prescribed depending on the individual patient’s skin type and pigmentation pattern.

These may include:

  • Hydroquinone
  • Tretinoin
  • Azelaic acid
  • Cysteamine
  • Tranexamic acid formulations
  • Combination prescription creams

Oral Treatments

Selected patients may benefit from oral medications such as tranexamic acid, which has demonstrated effectiveness in reducing recurrent pigmentation when appropriately prescribed and monitored.

Treatment suitability is assessed individually during consultation.

Laser Treatment for Melasma

Laser treatment can be a valuable adjunct for carefully selected patients.

Historically, aggressive laser treatments often produced disappointing results due to rebound pigmentation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Modern laser technologies have significantly improved treatment safety and outcomes when used appropriately.

UltraClear Laser Technology

At SKEEN, selected patients may benefit from treatment using the UltraClear cold fibre laser platform.

UltraClear utilises advanced cold-fibre technology designed to deliver precise energy while minimising unnecessary thermal injury to surrounding tissues.

Potential benefits include:

  • Improved skin quality and texture
  • Reduction in superficial pigmentation
  • Enhanced penetration of topical therapies
  • Minimal downtime compared with traditional ablative technologies
  • Reduced risk of inflammation when appropriate protocols are followed

Laser treatment is not suitable for every patient with melasma and should only be performed following a detailed assessment and treatment plan.

A Personalised Approach

Melasma is a complex condition influenced by genetics, hormones, sunlight, heat, inflammation, and skin biology. Effective treatment requires more than simply prescribing a cream or performing a laser procedure.

At SKEEN, we combine experienced clinical assessment, advanced VISIA imaging, evidence-based medical therapies, and modern laser technologies to develop personalised treatment plans aimed at achieving safe, natural, and long-lasting improvement.

If you are concerned about facial pigmentation or have previously struggled with recurrent melasma, our team can provide a comprehensive assessment and discuss the most appropriate treatment options for your skin.

Author:

Dr. Colin R McTari
MD, Fellowship in Dermatology
FAID, IFAAS, FSCI, ACAM (Laser)
Dermatology, Cosmetics, and Complex Skin Surgery

Why Choose SKEEN for Medical Skin Care?

  • Treatments are delivered by highly trained practitioners in a safe, professional environment.
  • We use evidence-based, clinically validated techniques to manage a wide range of skin conditions.
  • Care is personalised, prioritising comfort, realistic outcomes, and long-term skin health.

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